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19 September 1879 — Jerusalem | |
Friday. 19th September [1879]. We breakfasted at 8—bought keffiehs and rode out to the Mt of Olives. It was very hot but with white umbrellas & our keffiehs put on under our hats we did not feel the sun too much. We rode to the Virgin’s Tomb—the site of the Ascension the supposed site where the Pater Noster was pronounced by Christ & the minaret from wh one gets a splendid view of the country, the mountains of Moab & the dead sea. It was a perilous feat getting to the top of the minaret as the whole thing was in such a state of disrepair that it was almost tottering & the parapet of the ledge round the top had nearly all fallen off—so one had to crouch down for fear of getting giddy & tumbling over. We went to the so called garden of Gethsemane the most revolting of all the sights—it is a common place plot of ground palissaded round & divided into flower beds with a water tank in the centre—round the inside of the palissade in the garden is a walk & at intervals suspended the stations most villianously executed & almost caricatured. We went into a field where there were some tombs under ground but only the gentlemen descended & said there was nothing to be seen– Henry had to get home to receive the Consuls & here we parted. Alice, I & Hill & Mr Salami (the Consular Dragoman) going round by Siloam. We passed curious rock cut tombs at the end of the Valley of Jehoshaphat– The latter is a most curious sight being a mass of grave stones. The village of Siloam was nothing remarkable & one cannot see much of the “pool.” A spring of fresh water was shown us as the source wh filled the pool & watered the little valley wh was well cultivated. We saw other large reservoirs now quite empty. Got home soon after 12 o’cl & I met some of the consuls with their smart cavasses stamping in & out of the hotel and they swept by me with a majestic air. After the departure of the Consuls we went to the Wailing place of the Jews a thing they do every Friday. They put their heads against the stones of the outside of the mosque of Omar & cry aloud & beat their breasts. There were old men & young, women & children—they made a deafening noise. The old people seemed sincere & really cried & the children did it mechanically. The place where they assemble a narrow cul de sac street & we had to hustle to get in—& as we got near with our cavass & large party the wailing died down—but as soon as we were settled down in a corner it began with renewed ardour. There were many picturesque costumes especially the Polish Jews with their long kind of robes, their curls on each side of the face and their large fur caps. We did not stay long as it was close & smelly but we went on to the British Consulate where Mrs Moore had kindly got a lot of people with roses, olive wood things &c &c for us to see if we wished to buy any. We were there some time had tea—& bargained over our purchases & then went home– Henry went to pay a visit to the Armenian Patriarch at the Convent and as he came back after dark was brought home in procession with lighted tapers & cavasses stamping their silver headed sticks on the ground. We dined & went early to bed– | |
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