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23 September 1879 — En route to Beirut | |
Tuesday. 23rd [September 1879]. We slackened pace so as not to arrive at Beyrouth till 10 after our breakfast. A very picturesque place seen from the sea with the mountains of Lebanon for background– Unfortunately the sea sand is gaining on one side & spoiling the country. The Governor & Consul came on board & Midhat P. sent his political secy Wassif Effi to meet us. At the landing place there were troops drawn up and people in every window—there being no place on the narrow quay. We had to walk a little way & then were put into carriages & driven to a fine house some way off where we were entertained at the expense of the town. The houses here are built as at Jaffa with large central halls having rooms on each side. I was glad to lie down & rest for a couple of hours. Henry held receptions of Judges, authorities &c without intermission till past 12 when we had luncheon in the long hall—the master of the house being present, the Govr &c &c. I then received the Lady of the house & the English ladies, amongst whom was a pretty Mrs Philips wife of the Judge at Cyprus for wh place they started after leaving me. In the afternoon when Henry had finished his receptions & it had got cool we were taken for a drive. At lunch I got a telegram from Midhat P. bidding me welcome. Rustem P. came to see us. We had a great consultation as to how we were to tell Rustem that unless he sent away a certain Genl. & Mrs Rickards who were staying with him we wd not go to stay with him. Genl. R. had been a Mohammaden in Egypt and kept an extensive harem—had become Christian again & ended by marrying his own niece—for wh reason we declined to receive her. We drove all round the town. There are some lovely houses—each in its own garden. Jasmine, roses & growing in them like weeds. We also saw palms & bananas in quantities. We dined in a large room in the basement of the house we were in. Rustem P. took me to dinner– The Municipality entertained us. A band played during dinner & a crowd of people looked in at the dinner. The food was bad & Rustem very X at the Rickards affair. There were some very polite speeches made– The Poet Khalil Hamir Effi made some verses in Arabic in my honour. In the eveng the lady again made her appearance in a black silk embroidered with large gold flowers. She had only been confined 12 days & gave me all details. She was very much painted & got up & spoke very bad French but was a goodnatured kind of woman & covered with rings & jewelry. We went to bed early having to start tomorrow early for Damascus. | |
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