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11 October 1884 — Orvieto | |
Saturday. 11th October [1884]. Got up early & were out at 8.30. West to the Church of S. Domenico to see a curious old tomb which is in sad disrepair of Cardinal G. di Brago—by Arnolfo. The stone work is much inlaid with gold mosaic in patterns. We went to the Opera del Duomo or Communale Museum & the old sacristan of the Church whom we had seen last night came with a leather bag full of keys 3 of wh were required to unlock the door. We saw there Etruscan remains in bronze stone, vases, &c & a whole tomb removed here bodily & very well put together. In an upper floor we saw several pictures by Simone Martini. Some beautiful priests vestments used by the Bishop of Orvieto at the Council of Trent. The stuff was Venetian cut velvet on gold ground & the embroideries all very fine & the designs beautiful. There is a splendid gothic silver monstrance by Ugolino Vieri of Siena– A fresco portrait of Luca Signorelli by himself & some fine laces & vestments wh we could not see as they are kept locked. It was getting on for 10 when we had seen this so we went to the church hoping to find the morning service over in the Brizio chapel. We had to wait a little while & had leisure to examine the lovely altars by Mosca & Moschino & as soon as the priests had gone to the Sacristy we went & sat a long while examining the frescoes by Fra Angelico, Benozzo Gozzoli & L. Signorelli which are most wonderfully preserved. We went & got photos of them afterwards & returned to the hotel & lunched. We found on leaving the hotel that they had run us up a tremendous bill & we protested in vain—they had managed to cook it up to 84 fcs for one night. 14 fcs for the carriage up & 8 down to the station, 8 fcs a piece for dinner & 16 fcs for the apartment. We had some time to wait at the station & came by 1.40 train to Arezzo wh we reached at 4.20. Walked to Hotel Victoria & good rooms. | |
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