0Sunday. 18th [February 1894]—Leucaspide, nr. Taranto
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18 February 1894 — Leucaspide, nr. Taranto
Sunday. 18th [February 1894]. Very cold– Breakfast at 9. Lunch at 12.30. Dinner at 6. Henry & I drove with Signor Topiccoli to see the town of Massafra; we did not go into it. It is a very Oriental looking town. White houses with flat roofs. It stands on a little incline & is divided in the centre by a deep ravine over which is built a high bridge to connect the 2 parts of the town—this is very picturesque. In the sides of the town one can see the caves which have at one time served as habitations. We did not go into the town & returned to Leucaspide the way we came along the high road. In the evening they played whist & I played Scopa—& then Sir James gave his servants & dependents a ball in order that we might see the dances of the country. They danced a kind to tarantella—here called the “pizzicata”– It is graceful when well danced by 2 people & when they vary the steps otherwise it is rather monotonous. The “band” consisted of a kind of guitar called a battente, a tambourine—an accordion & the human voice. The battente is a large guitar with wire strings—strung double like the mandoline & was played by one of the “guardiani”– A woman with a handkerchief tied round her head played the tambourine with great spirit—another woman sang a monotonous refrain over & over– The head guardiano managed the dances calling out the dancers one by one—& always keeping a couple at work. After a while—they changed the tune & danced the “Maddalena” the difference being that as one dancers retired the one left throw a white handkerchief to the partner he desired to dance with. The head guardiano did me the compliment of throwing me the handkerchief & I had to try & happily succeeded by trying to imitate the steps of my partner—& was kindly applauded by the people who clapped when any of the gentry joined in their dance. At abt 10 o’cl they adjourned to the kitchen to finish their dancing & we went to bed.

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