0Thursday. 5th [May 1904]—Rome
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5 May 1904 — Rome
Thursday. 5th [May 1904]. I had been very anxious since I got here to go to the Forum to see the excavations wh have been made by Signor Boni so I got Sr Onofrio to write & appoint that I should go this morning. Sr Onofrio wrote to Boni & also to Prof: Barnabei to expect us. The last time I had seen the latter was just 10 years ago when he had taken Henry round the Baths of Domitian. Barnabei’s delight at seeing me was touching. We went from the Palace before 10 o’cl some in the Royal carriage, others Eda amongst them in the hired carriage provided by the Q. for Countess Brandolin’s use during her stay. Barnabei met us at the gate of entry into the Forum. He began by rapidly sketching out the history of the succeeding cycles beginning with the peasants—Sabines, Romulus &c & then took us to see the various chief points of interest. At first Css Brandolin who is by nature rather forthcoming succeeded in putting herself to the fore. I stood quietly back & by degrees the Prof. addressed himself chiefly to me—stopping every now & then to shake hands with me & to say how pleased he was to see me & how he revered the memory of Henry the 1st of all the great modern archaeologists. We came later on to a place railed off into which we entered & descending a ladder, found Sr Boni in working attire, spade in hand directing his workmen who were carefully uncovering tombs containing skeletons of a time before the foundation of Rome. He pointed out the skeleton of a man who was evidently humpbacked. We had all too short a time to remain in the Forum having to get back to the Palace to the Queen’s breakfast at 12.30. I stopped a moment to have a word with Boni about the Campanile of St Marks which is still hanging fire. He said Oh yes the indolence of the Venetians is intolerable. Boni was dressed in a light flannel suit & had on a large shady hat. He is a very quiet little man of very few words but Barnabei says he is a genius & goes straight for what he wants & finds it—as one inspired by his dreams in the night. The Queen was very much interested to hear of our morning’s expedition & we sat talking & working with her a long time after lunch. At 4 I went with the Brandolins & Eda to a conference in the Collegio Romano held by a M. Dubois on telepathy a subject wh is very interesting—but we were all much disappointed. M. Dubois told us nothing new or notable. The Queen also went to the Conference wh lasted about an hour. Eda & I went on to tea with the Duchess di Sermoneta & had a pleasant talk. She invited Eda to drive with her tomorrow. On leaving the Dss we walked by the Corso to the Pincio & back to the Palace & then Eda returned to her hotel. There was a dinner party this evening– The Minister of Posts & Telegraphs Stelluti took me in & the Swedish Minister sat by me. The Belgian Minister & his wife were there & others– Princess Somaglia & Princess Palavicini who is in waiting & came most evenings to dine. She is a handsome old lady & very kindly—but very stout & unwieldy.

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