0Tuesday. 28th [November 1905]—Peshawar
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28 November 1905 — Peshawar
Tuesday. 28th [November 1905]. Major Rawlinson had kindly arranged for us to make an expedition up the Kyber Pass. A phaeton (landeau) came to the hotel for us at 7 a.m. & we started well wrapped up as the early morng air was cold. We drove towards the hills for abt 5 miles to a place called Jamrud which is the limit of the railway & thro’ which no one is allowed to go without a military pass. We went in to a kind of courtyard where officials sat at a table within the gate. They examined our “chit” made us sign our names—examined our bearer & finally gave us permission to proceed. A “tum-tum” or sort of dog cart was ready for us harnessed to wh were 2 sturdy little horses– The one in the shafts—the other running beside him. We soon began to ascend on the winding road among rocks into the hills. There was not a breath of wind & the sun was not too hot. The air got more & more fresh—& the drive was delicious. Every now & then we saw a small fort on the top of heights. We passed few natives until we got to Alimusjid. Here a soldier came out of a small guard house & called to us to stop putting himself across the narrow road with his gun levelled. This was the key of the pass. We produced our pass and asked permission to proceed. Our bearer explained—but the soldier declares he had recd no orders & that we could not go forward– After a parley he said he would enquire for orders & at once began shouting at the top of his voice to the sentinel of a fort about 500 feet above our heads at a little distance– In this way an animated conversation was kept up wh resulted in our “chit” being sent halfway up to the fort while a messenger who could read came halfway down to meet him & then shouted that we might proceed. As soon as we got our pass back we drove on– We soon came upon a long string of camels, horses, cows, men, women & children—a regular caravan escorted by native soldiers, who were wending their way over the pass to Afghanistan. They were a most motley crowd. The animals laden with men, women, children, dogs, cocks, hens, hay, wood, iron &c &c were being shouted at, beaten, pushed & dragged up the road. It took us quite a ¼ hour to pass by them. When we got nearer to the top of the pass we saw fine tall men walking along each having a gun slung on his back– The women were always carrying huge burdens on their heads. We passed several of the fortified villages & houses of this tribe of Afridis. We are told that they are a turbulent race always fighting amongst themselves & relentlessly pursuing each other in blood feuds. Our Govt made the road over the pass & that alone belongs to us—but by agreement the natives do not shoot at each other while any one is passing along this road. The caravans which go over the pass on Tuesdays & Fridays have an escort of our troops to ensure their safety. We reached our fort called Lendi Katal at 12 oclock & drove straight into it. There we found a rest house & we took our luncheon. After this we saw the rooms prepared for the P. & Pss of Wales—furnished like a Paris salon regardless of expense. They are to spend 2 hours here next week. We went into one of the little towers of the fort & walked about near the officer’s quarters—but saw none of them. We then walked out thro’ the gate but were not allowed to proceed being ordered back the sentry. We supposed that it was not safe to go without an escort so we meekly obeyed very sorry not to have been able to go to some higher point that we might look down upon Afghanistan of wh there must be a grand view. As there was nothing to be done we got our carriage & set off on the return journey & went a good pace down the pass reaching Jamrud at 3. We passed another large caravan coming down to Peshawar & were much interested & amused– At Jamrud we changed carriages again & reached the Hotel at Peshawar at 4.30 having had a charming expedition. We dined with the kind Rawlinsons & went direct from their house to the railway station & took the train for Lahore.

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