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24 February 1906 — Anuradhapura | |
Saturday. 24th February [1906]. Ajoo roused us abt 5.30 a.m. & got up before sunrise to set off on an expedition to Mihintale with Henry Dobray to guide us. It was just getting light as we started in our waggonette wh is the smallest of that sort I had ever ridden in. It was rather cold at first– The road is a good & straight one—cut thro’ the jungle & having beautiful trees on each side some with fine red flowers– Beautiful birds flitted about—& cheered us with their song– We stopped now & then to gather flowers & pretty berries– It took our rather feeble steed 1 hour to take us the 8 miles to Mihintale– We deposited our cloaks at the pretty little rest house and then went to the foot of the great flight of steps that leads to the top of the mountain– There are 1840 of these steps & are in moderately good preservation. At that time of the morning they are shaded by the jungle wh grows on each side out of wh come the most magnificent butterflies of a great size. Some were of a dark brown velvetty colour the edge of the wings being fringed with a light fawn colour—a most charming combination– It took us a long time to get to the top—as one has to stop to get breath or to gather flowers & beautiful ferns—or to examine a chamelion wh lay on our path. When we gets to the top one is repaid by an exquisite view over the plain—a sea of trees—& one sees the great Dagobas of Anuradhapura– On a platform at the top of the mountain is a small shrine & monastery. The monk in charge came to meet us—offered us chairs & several large green oranges wh are very refreshing. Then hearing that Nela was desirous of tasting milk of the cocoanut he had a boy go up & pick us one. The lad proceeded to tie a cloth to both his feet at about a foot apart & then crawled up the stem of the palm till he reached the top & cut a nut wh he held hanging from his mouth on the way down. The top of the nut was then pared off a hole cut in the middle & some of the milk poured out for me in a glass. I thought it rather sweet & fade & did not drink much. Nela enjoyed her draught out of the nut itself. After thanking the good monk for his hospitality we began the descent—first stopping to see the snake bathing pool wh is cut out of the solid rock– It has a 5 headed snake carved in the natural rock & hence its name. We got down the great stairs to the rest house at 10—glad to get into the shade, to breakfast & rest. Slept in the big chairs & read accounts of what we had seen, in various guide books. The heat, the quiet, & the continuous tapping song of the coppersmith woodpecker were conducive to sleep. At 4 we had a cup of tea & then started off back to Anuradhapura. Saw a mongoose run across the road also a big snake wh H.D. declared to be harmless. Got to the rest home at 6. Walked to telegraph office under care of the Dr who came to call at the desire of Sir Allan Perry. We found a pleasant French gentleman arrived at the rest house & we dined together talking French as he did not know a word of English. Another French friend of his arrived in the evening. We went early to bed. | |
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