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31 May 1882 — Amsterdam | |
Wednesday. 31st May [1882]. Breakfasted at 9 & then we went out with intention of taking an open cab & going round the galleries. We took Hill with us & walked a long way without finding any cab & asked our way several times– A good natured woman who was going along said she wd show us the way & we followed her for some time till we found an open cab & got into it. We went first to see the Van Hoop collection wh is in the university & saw some charming pictures– Some de [illegible word]—2 pretty Dirk Hals—a woman at a spinette—some Jan Steen—a sick woman—& a scene in a tavern—a man & woman both drunk & asleep—2 very beautiful Ruysdaels—½ 97—& 98. The Coup de Canon by Vandevelle—Rembrandt’s Juive fiancée—the latter I did not care much for. From there we went to Rijks Museum where we spent a very long time as there was a great deal to see. We went & sat for a long time before the Van der Helst—the Banquet of the Archers to celebrate the Piece at Munster– It is a magnificent collection of portraits & the details are most wonderfully painted. Then when we had studied it well we turned our backs to it & faced the Night Watch by Rembrandt—which is truly stupendous for colour, harmony & composition. One could not look at the Van der Helst after it—it seemed so colourless & mindless—altho’ it is a very fine thing when Rembrandt was out of sight & mind. There were quantities of other fine pictures– A great many Jan Steens—the Feast of St Nicholas especially is clever– After going round the whole collection we returned for a last look at the “Banquet” & the “night watch” & then Henry & I went to the Six Collection & Hill went back to the Hotel. We were admitted to the Six by an old servant of the family a very intelligent man. The collection is small & first rate & every picture worth looking out. We saw also old Venetian glass, & Delft & plate belonging to the family. The gem of the house was the Portrait of the Burgomeister Six & one of his wife by Rembrandt who was a friend of the family. They have also several small sketches by R. The two portraits are magnificent & in Rembrandt’s best style. Henry says that the St Paul by Rembrandt Ivor has at Canford is of the same time. From here we went to the Stadhuis where there are some Frans Hals but we could not get in as the Burgomeisters were sitting in the Hall so we drove back to the hotel. I laid down, rested & had some soup– At 5.30 we dined at table d’hôte. Henry & I took a walk after dinner round by the Jewish quarter wh is very picturesque & back to the hotel. Cribbage. | |
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