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29 July 1883 — Frankfurt | |
Sunday. 29th July [1883]. Breakfast in our room at 9.20, afterwards set out in a carriage to the Picture Gallery. We went to the private door where the Inspector lives & on presenting a card of introduction of Habichs we saw him at once & he took us up to the gallery which was not open to the public till 11. There are some splendid Moretto’s, a fine Moroni & some Franz Hals—a portrait by Sodoma & other beautiful things. It was past 12 when we left & went to see Daumier’s Ariadne. We found a cross old guardian who insisted on our seeing it by a red light which was got by means of a red curtain. He then opened the curtain for a moment & then got rid of us—so one could hardly feel to have seen it. We returned to our hotel just in time for 1 oclock table d’hôte. Had an excellent dinner well & quickly served in a fine room with 3 long tables. After dinner I wanted to go to church wh the guide book said was at 3. Henry took me but we found after some difficulty we found out the service was not till 5.30 & in the French church so we went for a walk in the old part of the town by the Römer Jews quarter (of wh there is now very little left). We looked into the Dom but service was going on & we cd not see it. Saw many curious & interesting old houses with high gables & some with fine carvings. Got back to the hotel & rested & then I went off to church. I met Hill & she went with me. We had to wait service not being till 6. Had a long talk with the sacristan in German. He told me he was one of the Huguenots families & seemed pleased when I told him I was one– He said “our Fritz & your Elisabeth were clever people & saw that the Huguenots would be good useful people & so encouraged them.” We talked abt the Jews whom he confessed he did not like. I told him I thought the Germans were very hard upon them—to wh he said yes but they were idle people & ought to be made to work & as to the bad things they may have done who knows, “if all the bad deeds were written down that had been done in the world that would not be books eno’ to hold them all!” So he went on until a lady came in & I had to take my place. Had a good sermon & music & there were a good many people. Henry went to the Opera & was gone when I got home from church. I wrote & read till his return at 10 when he had supper. | |
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