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20 October 1883 — Siena | |
Saturday. 20th October [1883]. Breakfasted at 8 & walked out afterwards to see the sights. We walked first to S. Dominico to see the church. The fine frescoes by Sodoma in St Catherine’s chapel– There is in a small chapel a portrait of St C. by Vanné. The Sodoma frescoe representing the fainting St C. is far more beautiful than cd ever be imagined by what one could imagine from any copy. We walked from here to St Catherine’s house where in the several chapels built over & round it we saw many frescoes—all very interesting. The little cell & the stone on wh the Saint laid her head when she slept in it were shown by the woman who did “custode.” We went from St C’s house to the Baptistry where there is a most splendid bronze font with Bas reliefs & lovely marble ornaments. Also frescoes by Sienese artists. The pavement outside the doorway is done in beautiful marble tarsia with coloured marbles inlaid. They are very much worn and spoilt but one can see the lovely designs– When we got into the cathedral—going up the fine flight of steps & under the archway of what was to have been another aisle of the cathedral, I found the whole floor done in the same beautiful marble tarsia work. Mass was going on—& the organ playing—but the music was light & operatic. The custode took us into the Piccolomini library & left us to examine at our leisure the splendid frescoes by Pinturicchio of the Life of Pius II. Then he returned & showed us the choir books one of wh is splendidly illuminated by Liberate di Verona & most exquisite. The service being over he took us to see the rest of the pictures viz the panels by Duccio &c. We saw also the splendid marble tarsia work on the floor round the high altar as the custode rolled back a part of the oilcloth with wh it is covered. We saw a small statue of Christ & 2 seraphs done by Michelangelo in his youth—& not very remarkable were they. We went from the Duomo to the Opera del Duoma which is a building adjoining & is in reality part of the unfinished nave. There are kept the 3 graves wh were found in excavating for the Cathedral. The Opera is used as a museum & there are kept there the old pieces of the cathedral wh were removed when any restoration was made. Here are also the old pieces of the original fountain di Gioia in the Piazza. Upstairs are some old pictures & also some splendid red & gold cut velvet out of a convent in a most splendid state of preservation. We went on to the Piazza & saw the inside of the Palazzo Publico where there [are] a great many interesting frescoes. In the Sala del gran consiglio are the most interesting & adjoining them is one of the most perfectly finished chapels I ever saw. The iron doors & the lamp hanging in the centre being all of the same date as the rest. We went to the chemist to buy some lotion for my eyes as they were very painful. Found one of the best chemist shops I ever saw. We went to the Belle Arte for ½ hour & just went thro’ the rooms full of early Sienese painters– Admired especially Sodoma’s fresco of Christ bound & then we went back to the hotel to get some luncheon. Rested for an hour & bathed my eyes & then at 2 we had a carriage & drove to Fonte Giusta to see B. Peruzzi’s Sybil– Then we drove S. Bernardino where we saw Sodoma’s frescoes. The whole oratory very complete & beautiful. We drove on to S. Agostino but rang in vain for the custode who cd not be found so we went on for a drive outside the town. It was a most lovely afternoon– There were many clouds wh gave beautiful shadows & it was warm & pleasant. From every turn the views of the town were varied & most picturesque. We got back to the hotel at 4 & as my eyes were very painful I bathed them & rested till table d’hôte at 6.30. Met Mrs Charles Tuckerman whom we had known at Consple. Her husband had been American minister at Athens & he was a great deal at Consple as representative of Turkish Bondholders. A good man—but a bore. I sat next Mrs T. at dinner. She gave me a recipe for my eyes & Henry went to the chemist to get it made up. I went to bed at 8.30 to rest my eyes. | |
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