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4 September 1884 — Milan | |
Thursday. 4th September [1884]. Breakfast at 8 & Henry went off to Morelli’s house to examine his collection. I went out at 10 with Gigia to the shop where I wanted to get my travelling bag arranged. Have settled about it I walked on to join Henry at Morelli’s. There had been a thunderstorm & it was raining off & on all the morning. We went to the Ambrosiana to see the pictures and Henry made some notes & I sat a long time before Rafael’s Cartoon of the School of Athens. Then we returned to the Hotel to lunch– Rested an hour, & at 2 Morelli came to fetch us & we went in a cab to the Borromeo palace to see some curious frescoes of the 13th ceny in the archive rooms there. They are 3 & very curious & represent ladies of the time playing different games. One is cards & one is a sort of game of ball. The other we could not make out. They are on a bright red ground & there are curious landscapes, green trees, rocks & water. The costumes are curious & of the time. We went on to Cenacolo to see the Last Supper of Leonardo & Morelli explained to us that there was not a trace of the original painting– The composition alone is his & the whole has been 3 times repainted. He told us how Leonardo had painted in oil which had crumbled off. We went into the church close by—the Maria della Grazie to see the Sacristy wh is very interesting– Then on we went to Sta Maria Maggiore & spent some time looking at the frescoes by Luini & up in the galleries of the nun’s part of the church to see the medallions by Boltrafio. From there we walked to the Piazza del Duomo & to Janetti’s to look for a fan for me– I could not find a single plain one—they all have hideous paintings on them. It came on to rain heavily so Henry & I got into a cab & went back to the hotel. Rested & drew till dinner. There was a thunderstorm & heavy rain. Dined at 7. At 8 Morelli came & spent the evening with us. Worked with Henry & left at 10– Cholera very bad at Naples 160 cases there yesterday. | |
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