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29 October 1885 — Parma | |
Thursday. 29th October [1885]. Got up early & breakfasted & went out with Henry about 9. The Gregorys were not up. We went to the church of the Steccata where the dome frescoed by Correggio pleased us more than that of the Duomo. The church was entirely hung with red silk & a fine cut velvet border red on a white ground. Mass was going on & it was also rather dark & it was not easy to see the figure of Moses breaking the tablets of the law as it has turned so black & is on the inside turn of an arch. We tried to go down to the vaults to see the tombs of the Dukes of Parma but the man with the key not being forthcoming we went on to S. Giovanni Evangelista– From there we went to the Baptistery again & then to the picture gallery. While Henry was making notes I made a little sketch of a small Garofalo I liked & also of one of the figures of Parmigianino’s Marriage of St Catherine. At abt 12 we had to leave & we went to the Consorgio to see a picture by Caselli a large altarpiece in the style & abt the time of Bellini. It is kept in a chamber wh is used for the meetings & committees of the brotherhood. We walked back to the hotel & had lunch at 1. Left for the station a little before 2. There was a great collection of officers of regiments there to meet a General who was expected by the train which took us on to Bologna. As we could only find place in a smoking carriage we had to divide & I went in the Ladies carriage but I was not much better off as I only exchanged a smell of garlic for that of smoke. The ladies having evidently provisioned themselves with mortadella di Bologna. We got to the hotel about 5 o’cl. Dined at 6.30. Henry went to the theatre to see the Traviata & the great ballet Sieba & did not come home much before 1. I sat with the Gregorys by their fire till bed time. | |
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