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28 October 1885 — Bologna | |
Wednesday. 28th [October 1885]. Got up early & breakfasted betimes so that we were ready to leave by an early train which took us to Parma. We got there abt 12 & at once had lunch at the station sending on Luigi to the hotel with our bags. Sir Wm has a bad cold & was not up to much. We took a cab to the Picture Gallery in the Royal or Ducal Palace. Saw the celebrated “Giorno” by Correggio & the Scodella which did not please any of us very immensely—altho’ there is no doubt of their brilliancy of colouring. Two fine Cimas delighted us more– In this gallery one can also study the Mazzola family’s pictures of wh family one is known as Parmigianino. We preferred a picture of the Marriage of St Catherine by him. We went into the great Farnese theatre on coming out of the gallery. It is capable of holding 7000 people & tho’ now falling into decay the roof is repaired & the guardian said that it was proposed to repair the whole wh is in wood. We walked to the convent to see the rooms decorated by Correggio for the Lady Abbess wh are very charming & complete– Then to the Duomo where we did not become very ecstatic over the dome painted by Correggio. Then to the Baptistry which is most curious & interesting with a quaint old frescoes & then we walked to our Hotel the Croce Bianca & took possession of our rooms. We found an old fashioned Italian hotel with passages round a courtyard. Large well furnished rooms looking on a very narrow street & feeling very chilly. We lighted the stove & had some tea wh warmed & refreshed us & after resting a little while Henry & I left the Gregorys sitting by a fire & went & took a stroll. The town tho’ clean & handsome is laid out in straight streets at right angles & has no very picturesque bits as is usual in old Italian towns. We returned to our hotel abt 5. At 6:30 we dined in our sitting room. Sir Wm went early to bed. We taught Lady Gregory to play écarté & looked through 3 Vols of Punch of 1853—4—& 5 in the first there were many sketches & references to Henry when he was in Parliament & considered a great Radical. | |
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