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25 April 1912 — Ca’ Capello, Venice | |
Thursday. 25th [April 1912]. This has been the great day. The inauguration of the newly built Campanile. We were all astir betimes. Breakfast at 8.30 & then all set off in different parties for the Piazza. The Rodds were in their 4 oared gondola– Nela took some of the party to Sigra Asta’s windows in the Procuratie Vecchio– The Vivians (Violet & uncle) went to places given them by Huth Whitaker over Hotel Bellvue, I took Susan Somerset to the palco A which was set apart for the Authorities, next to the royal box. It was a lovely sunny day, but the wind was cold. We found our palco very empty & it never was really filled up. There were the ladies of the 2 Queens—the wives of the Admirals—some officials &c. The scene was brilliant. We landed at the Molo & were met by the head of the Police (whose name I forget) an old friend. He conducted us to our places. On one side there were the stands raised under the lea of the Ducal Palace filled with spectators—above them in the balconies of the Palace were all the school children who were to sing the hymns of praise written for the occasion– On the other side were lines of soldiers & police. Our stand A was under the Campanile facing the clock tower. In front was a passage kept clear for the Procession of clergy & then more stands for the Public. We had not very long to wait when the sound of the Marcia Reale warned us that the Duke of Genoa had arrived & he soon appeared in the Royal box surrounded by senators, officials, our ambassador & Lady Rodd—& the ceremony began. I think there was a short address but I could hear nothing. Then a lot of carrier pigeons were set free & went up into the air in a cloud to convey to surrounding towns that the ceremony had begun. After that the procession came out of St Marks, a surpliced choir, priests, bishops in white mitres, the Armenian patriarch, & lastly the Cardinal Patriarch at Venice holding his crozier. He entered the Campanile & blessed the inside of it & then proceeded to process round the outside & blessed that. He then returned & took up his place on a low dais opposed the royal box & under the bronze standard bearers– Then came the moving moment, the great bells of the Campanile which for ten years were silent, boomed out & a salute was fired from the war ships. Everybody seemed moved. I had a lump in my throat. The Cardinal gave his crozier for a moment to his accolyte to hold while he pulled out his pockethandkerchief. At the same time as the bells rung, the flags of Italy & of the Republic of St Marks, showed out from the top of the Campanile, causing the assembled multitude to shout with joy—another flight of pigeons was let loose & the ceremony was over– The clergy went in procession back to the church thro’ the Porta della Carta & the Duke of Genoa was conducted back to his box. Susan & I following his procession closely managed to get our gondola very quickly & came home. The bacino was covered with boats of every kind & one thought it must have resembled the days of the ceremonies in the time of the republic. Directly after luncheon I went off with Sir Rennell Rodd to the Ducal Palace to hear the lecture on the Campanile read by Corrado Ricci the Director of Fine Art. The Duke of Genoa with his following of senators &c sat in the great hall under the famous Tintoretto to hear it. Ricci was eloquent & moving. He said the old Campanile owed its beginning to a Grimani & the new one also to Count Grimani who is now the Sindaco. He also concluded with references to the present war (in grandiloquent disparagement of the Turks whose property in Tripoli Italy has lately despoiled her of). This raised much enthusiasm & after much cheering we proceeded to attempt to see the little museum of things connected with the rebuilding of the Campanile wh has been made. On going round I had presented to one Sigr Nathan the present Sindaco of Rome who came to Venice on this occasion. He is an Englishman born—& I am told he speaks Italian with an English accent. he is rather a fine looking man & is pleasant to talk to. Sir Rennell & I did not stay to see the Museum but slipped away to return home. At 5 o’cl the whole of my party & I went to a tea party given by Css Papadopoli in the palace a few doors off from here on the grand canal. There was also the Duke of Genoa & I had a few words with him. All the world was there official & of the town—there were a few couples who danced—the rest talked wandered thro’ the house & took tea. Sir Rennell Rodd dined at an official banquet to meet the D. of Genoa given by the Authorities at the Hotel Britannia. The rest of us dined early to go out to the Piazza to see the illuminations. The buildings were outlined with electric lamps & the Campanile had light in the belfrey. All the Campaniles in Venice had also their belfrys lighted up. It was not easy to land at the Piazzetta & get through the crowd so we went round by small canals & got thro’ the Hotel Cavaletto & so into the street behind the Hotel Bellevue where Mr Whitaker had hired a terrace overlooking the Piazza whence we had a fine view. On the way there we dropped Lady Rodd at the Royal Palace where she had been invited to view the sight. Sir Charles Holroyd & his wife had dined with us & accompanied us to see the illuminations. After a while we left our exalted position & descended to walk in the Piazza which was not very crowded. There we came upon Sir Rennell Rodd & brought him home. Lady Rodd was brought home in a launch by an officer. We were all tired & ready for bed. | |
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