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28 August 1869 — Lugano | |
Saturday. 28th [August 1869]. Breakfast abt 9. Afterwards we went into the church to see the frescoes of Barnardino Luini. There is a small one in a small chapel of Madonna, our Saviour & St John and an enormous one forming a screen representing the Passion. This is wonderful and I was not tired of sitting before it looking at it in detail. We then went & bought photos: of the Luinis & the place too. At ½ past 11 we went on board the steamer, which took us up the lake to Porlezza. The lake is not so disappointing as it is at Lugano and one has lovely views all along. At Porlezza which is an Italian town we had to have the luggage examined and while Hy got this done Hill & I had some luncheon at the little inn. We then got a carriage and drove to Menaggio. It was rather a hot drive but the country is lovely and we passed 2 more miniature lakes. The peasant girls are very handsome all abt here and do their hair very prettily with silver pins stuck all round the plaits and large silver balls on each side. All the people who came with us in the steamer from Lugano came to Menaggio and from there took boats, some to Cadenabbia some to Bellagio we went straight across to Varenna where there is a charming hotel rising out of the lake and is deliciously quiet. The host & hostess (who is wonderfully handsome) are most civil. Henry has been here so often they know him well. We have charming rooms looking over the lake. Dined at 6 we were only 9 in party we took our coffee on the terrace. I have rather a cold so was glad to go to bed early. It is very cool and nice here as one gets the breeze up & down the lake. Before dinner we sat on the balcony watching the quantities of little boats with their white sails coming from marketing at Lecco and taking home their purchases. One boat had an organ grinder on board and he was grinding polkas, mazurkas &c. We could also hear quite plainly the bells of Menaggio & also Bellagio ringing for Ave Maria. | |
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