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1 September 1869 — Milan | |
Wednesday. 1st September 1869. Better this morning. Abt 1 o’cl: we took a little carriage and drove to the Duomo. The effect on entering was most impressive as the light was dim and after the broad daylight seemed even dimmer than in reality. We walked up to the top and sat there admiring. We then walked round but refused to see the body of San Carlo as was offered us. On leaving the Duomo we walked across to the Great Gallery of Victor Emanuel where there were bright shops & a great many people taking their walks. The whole being covered in by glass. We went into a café for Henry to get some coffee and then found our carriage at the Brera end. We drove to Mme Arrigoni’s to see if she had any lace. I did not admire much & what I did admire she asked fabulous prices for. After a long time of haggling & disputing & when we were just leaving the shop we bought 3 pieces of lace & a lovely set of old diamond paste buttons to trim a velvet dress. From here we drove to see some pictures wh Mme Arrigoni wanted Henry to see. She sent her son with us to show us the way & he took us to a house opposite the Ch. of Sta Maria delle Grazie. I waiting while Henry went in to see the pictures. He came back saying they were worth nothing but there was a room in the house all painted by B. Luini with portraits of the Sforza family. We went across the street to see the fresco in the refectory of Sta M. delle Grazie. The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci. It is in a dreadfully decayed state & they say very little of the original remains. We then went into the church to see a chapel painted by Gaudenzio Ferrari which is in a very perfect state & the designs bold & clear. From here we drove to see the Hospital which is the most wonderfully fine building I have yet seen. It is red brick of a lovely colour and all the windows are most beautifully ornamented with red terra cotta ornaments. Besides this it is a most enormously large building running the whole length of the Street. Unluckily they have built on a new bit in a different style but the old part is lovely. We came back to the hotel after seeing the hospital. I did not go down to dinner. After dinner Henry went off to the Opera a small one wh was going at the time, entrance 1 franc. I sat & wrote my journal & had some tea. At abt 9 I was going to bed but happened to look into Hills room & found the Italian maid in a state of perplexity. Hill had stiffened herself & with eyes ½ open refused to move. I was dreadfully frightened & was glad when Mme Bruschetti came & we 3 together managed to get Hill into bed. I hoped Henry wd be home every second & thought I would wait up for him. At last I went to bed and by that time Henry returned & we settled for the night. At abt 3 we were awoke by a bell-ringing and I made Henry go & see if it was Hill. When he got there Hill seized him by the hand and said “Sir I am dying.” He said “Nonsense”—got a little brandy after wh she at once fell asleep!!– | |
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