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6 April 1871 — Toledo | |
Thursday. 6th [April 1871]. We breakfasted abt 9 and I wrote a letter &c before the Riaños came to fetch us to go out. We went straight to the Cathedral where the Holy Thursday services were going on. We saw a very curious ceremony the blessing of the 6 chalices containing the holy oil. They were covered up with purple, red & white cloths & each time as the cloths were changed the Bishop breathed into them & also all the parish priests of Toledo—& there were various things done wh took a long time– Then there was an end of the service & a procession was made to carry the Host to the Monument or Sepulchre where it was deposited & left. The effect of the candles, priests & singing was very good. We then went out & took a little walk & met the Saavedra party who also came last night & are in the same house as we. We went to Mr B. Riaño’s house which is charming & wh he says he pays £8 a year for & then we came home to luncheon & Palmaroli arrived from Madrid in time to join us. I wrote a letter & worked till 4 when we went out & met the Riaños & they took us to the house of a jeweller in the High Street where we were to see the procession pass. After waiting sometime there appeared men bearing a representation of the Lords Supper life size with the table covered with fruits, mangos & salad & in the middle a wooden paschal lamb then followed another with the Crucifixion. Before very long the whole procession appeared again– The latter had been taken to some other church to fetch the rest & they all came—besides those I have mentioned was a descent from the Cross a wooden figure of Christ nearly black with age & with long hair for wh they have a great devotion here– It was said to have been found miraculously floating when washed away in an inundation of the Tagus—there was also Virgin of Dolores in black velvet with the figure of Christ dead in her lap—then followed covered up crosses, officers, the Governor & some of the dignitaries of the town with candles– We then went away & went up to see the Alcazar—where there is a lovely view but it began to rain heavily & we were glad to get in under shelter. The building having been destroyed by the French in the Peninsular War was being restored but abt 4 years ago the works were stopped– The stair case is magnificent & it would be lovely if restored– Tho still raining we were obliged to go back into the town so we went into a café & had some “leche meringada” & by the time we came out the rain had ceased. On the way home we went into the Cathedral & the “Tenebre” was being sung. The building was very impressive when seen dimly lighted & the painted windows looked like jewels—in the gloom– We then came home & Pal too—we dined after 8 & went early to bed. | |
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