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7 July 1883 — Vienna | |
Saturday. 7th July [1883]. Tea at 9 & at 10 Henry & I walked to the Albertina. Saw Profr Festling & he had the drawings of Durer, Rembrandt &c brought out & shown to us. We were much interested & stayed to look over drawings till after 12. We then walked to the Academy of Painting & went thro’ it but were not edified, the pictures being bad over painted & varnished so we were glad to get back to the hotel & get our lunch. I went to call on Mrs Drummond & saw him too. She told me much abt Vienna & society here– She says the Viennese ladies give themselves tremendous airs with foreigners & sometimes do not deign to speak to them—that they treat as beneath them those of their own countrymen who have not the requisite number of quarterings & who are of the petite noblesse. She says that in the hotels there are 2 rooms at the restaurant one of patricians & one plebians. She was told by a gentleman that he heard a Viennese gentleman at a restaurant say loudly to the waiter Please to remove that Jew I cant eat my dinner with him in the room. What insolence! It makes my blood boil to hear of. A rich Jew was murdered at his schlozz 2 years ago by his chasseur– The tribunal only gave the murderer 12 years’ imprisonment because his victim was only a Jew!! Many were furious at his having been punished at all. All the omnibuses, tramways &c are divided into 1st 2nd & 3rd class. No lady of society would go in a 1 horse cab—nor one with 3 seats– I am thankful it is not my lot to live in this place. If the Austrian Ambassador & officials marry ladies who have not the requisite number of quarterings their wives cannot go to court– Our chaplain here cannot go to court on acct of his being a Protestant! Surely this must all be swept away & cannot last much longer in this enlightened century– It is a disgrace to the age. When I returned from Mrs Drummond Henry & I took a walk to see the new buildings for the Picture gallery &c & then returned & dressed for dinner. The Drummonds called for us at 6.30 & drove us to the Prater we drove abt a little & then went to Sachers & dined in the garden. We had an excellent dinner & could hear the music at a café not far. Just at sunset we were plagued by the most ferocious mosquitoes who almost devoured us. As soon as the sun was down they disappeared as if by magic. After dinner we walked a little to hear the band at a café wh played beautifully & then we drove home soon after 10. They told us that the portiers at every house put out the gas & close the doors at 10 after wh he levies a tax of 10 kreutzers on every person who goes out or in. It is another bit of old world tyranny. Mrs Drummond said that at their Minister’s reception on 4th the porter was able to levy this tax on every one of party—& would not unlock the door till he was paid. | |
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