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7 October 1884 — Bologna | |
Tuesday. 7th October [1884]. Tho’ the weather did not look very bright we determined to make our excursion to Ferrara & went to the station by 9.20. Mme Minghetti met us. We took our luncheon in a basket & eat it en route in order to save time. The train was a slow one & we got to Ferrara at 11.30. Then we had to undergo fumigation & then took a carriage & went to St Domenico where the guide book said we should find good pictures. We found they had been removed to the Gallery so we hastened off there & under Morelli’s direction saw those pictures wh were most worth looking at. There are some very fine pictures by Dosso Dossi, Garofalo & Costa. We could not remain there very long so we drove on to the Palace of Schifanoia to see the old Palace with its Hall with curious frescoes by Costa & his pupils. The next rooms have lovely ceilings. We went on to the Duomo—the exterior of wh is most picturesque. Inside there are some good pictures but terrible modern decorations. In the sacristy is a beautiful stone figure of the Madonna & Child by Quercia 1408– From there we walked to the Seminary to see the 2 ceilings painted by Garofalo– They are chiaroscuro & quite lovely– The whole room was once painted but was white washed by the priests as some of the figures were unclothed– Even one of the figures in the ceiling had lately been half white washed as it was not considered quite eno’ dressed. We took a turn into the old castle wh with its moat & towers & draw bridges is externally most picturesque– Inside the court was entirely remodernised. We went into a café & got a cup of coffee & then set off again. Went to see Ariostos House which is carefully preserved & by 3.30 were at the station again. Took the train at 4.15 back to Bologna having had a very successful day & no rain. Dined early. | |
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