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29 September 1890 — Ca’ Capello, Venice | |
Monday. 29th September [1890]. This morning there was a thick fog when we got up—but it cleared later. Ola went off in our gondola at 8 to fetch H.M.—& go in search of a place for H.M. to paint. I got up at 7 but feeling tired got into bed again & there remained till lunch. Had a visit of farewell from Lady Elizabeth Adeane & one also from Edith Bronson. Lady de Gex came to luncheon. Mme Noce came at 3 to see what plans there were for this evening & I told her we were all to go in gondola to S. Francesco in deserto at 5. She took me to the Brownings to invite Mr Browning to come with us wh he agreed to do—& I came back at once. Henry went out at 4. At 5 I & the 3 girls went across to Pal. Malcolm & I & Ola accompanied H.M.—the 2 Princesses & Virgie & Nela in another gondola– Ct Seckendorff, Herr Wedell & Mme Bruhl in another, Mme Noce, Mr Moore & Browning the 4th & so off we set. We went out by Murano—the tide was very low & we had to take a long round so it was dark when we got to S. Francesco in deserto. On landing Ct Seckendorff & I went & knocked at the door wh was closed for the night & when one of the monks came we explained that Her Majesty was there & would like to see the Convent. At once the monk called another & had a little parley & they said the gentlemen might come in but the ladies were requested to remain outside– Then came the superiors & hearing what company had arrived he gave orders to let every body in—had candles lit & showed the cloisters & took us into the garden where a list of the Staff of S. Francis is supposed to be kept—even taking H.M. to see a new boat they had built. The bell for the Ave Maria was just sounding & H.M. asked if she might go to the chapel & they at once took her there. She thought we ought not all to go but the monks said we might do so & it was a most picturesque effect. The chapel very small—was dimly lighted & behind the altar the invisible monks were chanting—& ended with rather a fine hymn. After this we went into a side chapel brilliantly lighted & the monks came into it & prayed before a little shrine containing relics of St F. & went down on their knees with their hands extended in the attitude of St F. receiving the stigmata. When all was over we were taken to the refectory & then upstairs to see the monks cells. A frate went before with one candle & the moon had risen by then & there was a dim mysterious light. The convent was clean & well kept. We went into a cell & saw that the bed was made of stone & had only straw for a mattrass– The other furniture was a Prie Dieu by the bed & bench & desk– It looked very comfortless. When we went down again we found our dinner laid out on a table just outside the convent in the moonlight & we sat down at once very hungry. The padres came down to see us off & seeing we had guitars begged we would strike up as soon as we started. This we endeavoured to do but a heavy dew was falling and our strings kept breaking. It was a splendid night. I went in the gondola with Pss Victoria, Mr Moore & Mr Browning & we played all the way home. Just as we reached home we met a galleggiante boat going up the canal with music. Css Pisani had been dining with Henry & she let our girls get into her boat & follow the music. Henry & I went to bed. | |
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