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10 February 1899 — Rome | |
Friday. 10th [February 1899]. My servant not being better sent for Dr who says it nothing but a bad cold– I was going out at 10 to the Lavaggi funeral when I met Count Brandolin of Venice who came to enquire for me & accompanied me as far as Piazza Colonna—& I went on to S. Maria Aquiro where there was already a large concourse of people. I got a seat near Mme de Bülow. The service was the most solemn I have heard in an R.C. church. The coffin was on the floor with only 2 wreaths on it & no pall– It appears this is the holiest in Roman princely families. The church was hung with numberless glass chandeliers with unlighted candles– There were 2 large lighted candles at the head & foot of the coffin—& candles on the altar by a large plain cross. The service began punctually at 10.30 & the requiem sang by 4 voices was by Palestrina—very fine & impressive & solemn. The only thing that marred the service was when the clergy returned for the absolution service & sat in front of the coffin with a large white mitre like a “fool’s cap” it seemed to me. This mitre being constantly taken off & put on his head by his acolytes. The service lasted nearly 2 hours—after wh most of the people dispersed & only the family & intimate friends went to the cemetery. I walked back to the hotel to lunch with Lady Louisa Legge, & then sat quiet reading & working till 4.30. Went to Piazza Mignanelli & paid a visit to Miss Walker where I met Mrs Walker & the Dean of Lincoln (she is Gladstone’s daughter). They are staying at this hotel. I went on to see Mme Hurtado & remained there till 7 when I walked back to the hotel & dined with Mme de Bülow & Lady Louisa– Quiet evening alone—read, patience. | |
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