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14 October 1904 — En route to Cettinje | |
Friday. 14th [October 1904]. Got up at 7 & went on deck to see the arrival at Gravasa wh is now the port for Ragusa—both very picturesque places. Here saw some women in good costumes especially some gipseys who were exceedingly picturesque—well grown & very handsome & well featured. At Spalato where we had not time to land the old Roman amphitheatre looking very fine from the water. Ragusa also is imposing surrounded by its old Venetian walls. The weather was still gray tho’ the water was smooth. Abt 11 we entered the Bocca di Cattaro & the sun happened to come out. It is a lovely scene something like the Lago Maggiore with small villages & single houses scattered along the shore. We arrived at Cattaro abt 12—on the quay Mr Kennedy was waiting for me & came on board. We had to get our dinner & he went back to the hotel for his. His servant took Baker & the luggage off in a landau, Mr Montalba went in a Victoria & left me to follow with Mr Kennedy in the carriage which had been sent on purpose for me by the Turkish Ambassador. I was much amused sitting on deck to watch the people on the quay—Montenegrins with their splendid dress—pistols in their belts & a grand air & swagger. Women from Herzogovina with short, colored, petticoats, & black, short dress & a light blue long tailed coat. A little embroidered cap on the head from wh hangs a long kind of white veil. When Mr Kennedy returned from his lunch he took me for a walk thro’ the little town thro’ the Venetian fortress wh still has its draw bridge over a river & so leads to the keep. There is a handsome old church wh is being restored, is rather nearly entirely rebuilt & spoiled. The streets are narrow & paved & up & down hill. At 1 we saw the “Graf Wurmbrand” depart for Trieste carrying off the Russian Minister at Cettinje whom Mr Kennedy recognised & waved to. We then got into our carriage & set off at a good trot up the mountain wh has, I believe 27 zigzags before it reaches the top in 3 hours. Half way we passed the servants & Mr Montalba. The afternoon was lovely and we had lovely views of the sea & the Bocche till we suddenly began to go down & along a flat part. There we also saw the old path, called the Ladder which used to be the only road to Cettinje used by mules & wh is described by Henry in his memoirs as being the road he took. It is far shorter than the new Austrian road & is still used by the natives & their mules. Along the little plain on the top of the mountain there is a little cultivation & a few houses. There is also a kind of farm wh is the birthplace of the present Montenegrin R. family. At the inn we were met by Baroness Kuhn who had driven out from Cettinje to meet us & had prepared tea for us. She is a handsome woman of abt 40 née Kadid & came from Consple. She speaks English perfectly & fluently & talks much & in a loud high key—but she is agreeable & very kind. She made me get into her carriage & drove me very rapidly to Cettinje getting there just as it got dark– She knew the Belmondos, the Hansons, Cariatis &c &c & we talked them all over & the sad end of Ct who had forged for a large sum a year ago. I found very comfortable rooms prepared at the “Grand” Hotel. The drive down from the top of the mountain was very precipitate & Mme Kuhn’s poney took it at a brisk rate– She drove well & with good nerve. It was like going down a rocky caldron to find a rather extensive plain in the midst—at one end is Cettinje wh is like a large village such as may be seen in Norway—low 1 story houses on each side of a very broad street—with here & there a small villa wh one was told were the Royal palaces. It is the most extraordinary place possible– The men fine & tall were standing about in the middle of the road. Dim oil lamps were burning at intervals—& small shops were lit up here & there—there seemed to be a few small trees behind some of the houses & some in front of the Grand Hotel. Kind Mme Kuhn left me in my rooms & I sat down to rest till just before 8 when Baker arrived with the luggage & I went & walked with Mr Montalba to Mr Kennedy’s house. He gave us a good repast of wh we stood in need. The Turkish Ambr had sent 2 special dishes for us. At 10 we walked back to the Hotel thro’ the rain wh had begun to rain & retired to bed. | |
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