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10 February 1906 — Mandalay | |
Saturday. 10th [February 1906]. At a little before 8 Nela & I were down in the town at the B.T. Co to fetch Mr Ogilvy who had promised to take us on an expedition to Mingun down the river to see the great bell. We all three took the tram down to the side of the Irrawaddy where we found that he had a large steamer launch ready to take us up the river. We had to cross a long narrow plank to get on board as the river is low—this peril over we started safely. It took an hour to get up to Mingun against stream. A lovely cool morning, large sand banks which make navigation difficult– It seems that the currents almost daily shift. We landed at Mingun near the Co’s bungalow having to cross some logs tied together at the water side. A lovely walk under a grove of tamarinds, mangos &c till we got to a Pagoda which seemed abandoned: then on to the great bell which is suspended between thick iron pillars & covered with a high pagoda roof. Mr Ogilvy had the bell struck for us to hear its great deep voice—wh is like the full low notes of a great organ– Two native police were there to take care that no one tried to harm it. There was a small serpent climbing up one of the outside pillars—the first I have seen since we came to this part of the world. It was said by the men to be harmless. We found many nice flowers & buds amongst them the datura– As soon as the great bell was struck a lot of old women came running & begging for alms. Mr Ogilvy told us they were nuns who lived in the rest houses near the bell. We went to look at the Buddha in the Great Pagoda which was to have been 3 times higher than it is at present, had not its builder died. It is already cracked by earthquake & is falling into ruins– Little offerings of flowers, rice & pots of water & a light or two were there probably put there by the old nuns. On our way back to the bungalow we passed a man climbing a coconut tree. He had tied on to its smooth trunk a bamboo with notches tied on to it by wh he ascended as by a ladder. He was at the top under the leaves & was tearing off & throwing down the fibre wh he will evidently use. We rested at the Bungalow & had some refreshment & then started back for Mandalay. It took us about 20 minutes to get down as we went with the steamer. Saw most picturesque boats with a high double prow—also sort of canoes hollowed out of a tree. Got back to Salween House for 2 o’cl lunch. Found that the river steamer up from Rangoon had arrived & the Burtons were in our hotel. Also a Mr & Mrs Browne whom I had last met at the Haverford cricket club while staying with the Griscoms in America. After tea Nela & I went to call on Mrs Broadbent & sat with her & Mr Dickinson in the garden. Then we took a walk & back by about 7. | |
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