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28 April 1906 — Milan | |
Saturday. 28th [April 1906]. Was called at 6.30 after a bad night’s rest owing to the noise in the street after the quiet of Venice. Had my tea & dressed & was ready when Malagola sent to say he was ready at 7.30. We drove to the Park where the New Exn is prepared. Malagola had not been able to get a ticket of admission so he left me at the gate. Luckily the rain had ceased but the paths were very muddy– It was not quite 8 & there were not many people moving. However at the doors of the Sala di ricevimento, a monument of bad taste I happened on Count Oldofredi the Q. Margherita’s chamberlain & he put me into the right path. I found the balcony for wh I had a ticket quite empty so took a front seat & began a wait of two hours while the hall slowly filled up. I had little to cheer my mind as to the decorations of the Sala—the bad taste of it was colossal. The great column wh divided the balconies & sustained the dome were made to represent trunks of trees with their barks & knarls &c. The dome itself was a miserable thin vine wh was still more incongruous. Just before the ceremony began a gentleman came to our balcony & asked us all if we belonged to the family of an “assessore”– Those who could not claim that honor were told to vacate their seats & sit at the back—thus I came finally to sit in a second row. At last at nearly 10 o’cl the K & Q arrived with the Princess Letitia of Aosta. The Queen was vilely dressed as usual & hung on to the K’s arm thus making him look smaller than ever. The speeches we saw pronounced but did not hear were not over long. The Q. then stepped forward & unlocked a padlock wh held together 2 silken cords (more bad taste) & the Exhibition was open! The K tucked his wife’s arm under his & off they went to walk about & see the Exn. I hurried down to rejoin Malagola– I met Ct Grippi—the old ambassador who was got up like a boy & had all the brave look of a youth—he being now near 90. I hurried thro’ the picture gallery wh smelt so strong of varnish & paint that it was unbearable—& I got out into the street. While searching for Malagola I saw Mr Des Gras the Eng. Secy representing the Ambassador who is now at Naples with our King. He said he had not yet heard whether Henry’s legacy of the pictures we had been allowed by the Italian Govt. I told him Cassis had written to me to say it had been passed by Supreme Council after a hard fight of 2 hours! When at last I found Malagola we went back to the hotel & thence to Cova’s to lunch. He had made rendezvous there with Css Cavazza of Bologna whom [he] had accidently met. We waited for her past 12 & then gave her up. When we were half thro’ lunch she appeared & joined our table. On leaving Cova’s we also Css Zucchini of Bologna & all foregathered at the corner of the street. Thence we went M. & I to the Castello & paid a long visit to the museum there. It was to me very interesting to see the rooms of the gentle Beatrice d’Este & her ungentle husband Ludovico, for whom I have nevertheless a sneaking admiration. Abt 4 we went to Biffi’s & had a cup of tea as I was feverish & thirsty. Did some shopping—packed & started back to Venice at 6.30—very tired—& feverish & got home at midnight quite done up. | |
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