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28 August 1908 — Castel Savoia, Gressoney St. Jean | |
Friday. 28th [August 1908]. We had orders to be ready at 10 to start on an expedition in motor cars to go to the Lago d’Allice in the Val Canavese beyond Ivrea. We went in the usual way the Queen, her 2 ladies & I in the 1st car with Prof. Giacosa in the 1st car– “Aquila” the Genl Mimi & del Grillo in the other– Ct Guiccioli had gone to Milan. It was a lovely fresh morning when we started & M. Rosa was cloudless. As we got down the valley nearer Pont St Martin it got hot & the Q. ordered the capotte to be put over us. When we had got past Ivrea we turned off on a strada communale into a side valley & went up & up by a road shaded by fine chestnut trees passing groves & vines & Indian corn & asparagus beds till abt midday we reached the most lovely little lake & there we found the Q’s motor bus & her men led us up to a charming spot—a sort of promontory, carpetted with grass where under the shade of some bushes they had prepared the tables for our lunch. The lunch table was covered with light blue linen, the side table was covered with light yellow. We were some time sitting down so as to avoid the sun which was hot. The place where we were was ideal. On one side we looked down on the little lake nestling in the green mountains—on the other on the great fertile plain of the Doira. A slight mist had risen over it which lent in a peculiar beauty & on the other side the alps had churches & villages scattered here & there nestling in the woods. After lunch we descended to the lake & there the Queen, the Villamarina, Strongoli, the Genl & I sat & the Queen & I talked, while the rest of the party went fishing out of the lake the fly eating plants & the shells in which are formed the fresh water pearls. The conversation of the Queen & I fell on the bible & she told me how her brother the D. of Genoa & given her after she married a copy of our English Testament which he had brought with him from England when he was at Harrow school & that was the first time she had read the whole of the gospels & appreciated them to the full. As to the Old Testament she said she was much shocked at the Song of Solomon & especially disliked Job & the blasphemies of his “comforters.” She said she especially admired the book of Maccabees. I reminded her that they were not in our Bible & she said that the rabbin of Venice had once in paying her a visit explained to her that tho’ they had the Apocrypha they had not been originally written in Hebrew. We agreed that the Old Testament is mostly a history of the Jews & therefore was not to us Christians what the New Testament is. She spoke of St Paul & said how fine his writing is– I said he was a philosopher & the Queen answered—“Yes remember he was a greek.” She said the present Pope had ordered new translation of the Bible to be published & it will be such as will be allowed to be sold to anyone. Just then across the little lake came the voice of Mimi asking if it were not time to proceed on our expedition & the Queen rose & we made our way to the motor cars wh were ready waiting for us on the road. An old peasant woman was waiting for the Queen outside her cottage door with a bunch of flowers from her garden & a plate of nuts & one of cornatini which she offered H.M. The Queen took the flowers & some of the nuts & asked the old woman kindly about her family. She said her daughters were out at service & the two sons were working in Prussia she did not know the name of the place. The Queen called for del Grillo to bring her money & gave her a 5 lire piece. At last we got off & took a further excursion up the hills to a place called Brosso a picturesque village a good deal higher up. We went up by some sharp tourniquets some so narrow that the motor had to get past them by backing & going forward two or three times. There was no parapet & it was nervous work & I confess to having been alarmed. However the driver was splendid & we got up without difficulty to a valley covered with stones & a few pine trees rather like parts of Scotland. On arriving at the summit we found Brosso with a church perched up on a hill & from it one looks over a wall into the valley of the Doira. There are also the ruins of an old castle of 13th century—& a pretty little burial ground nicely kept & planted with a few flowers. The church was open & we looked in. The Queen & her ladies knelt devoutly & prayed. The interior of the church has been repainted in garish colours & the picture frames regilt & are painfully bright. On leaving the church we walked down the slope to the village & up through the picturesque narrow street paved with cobbles till we came to another valley looking down into the Val d’Aosta where everyone said they would like to build a chalet. The chestnut woods & grass descent were like a fine park. There was one comfortable house there belonging to a Sig. Traversa an Engineer known to Prof. Giacosa. The women were busy cutting grass & carrying home great loads of it on their shoulders. By the time we returned to the motors the inhabitants of the place had learnt who the Q. was & were assembled to see her start. There were many pretty faces amongst the women & as we drove off they raised the cry Viva la Regina Madre & clapped their hands. I was very glad when we had got to the end of the return journey to Allice safely– Once or twice my heart beat violently. The road beyond Allice by Gauna was most lovely. We got to Ivrea about 6 meeting a good many carts on the road evidently returning from marketing. We spent an hour in getting from Ivrea to Castel Savoia at Gressoney & got there at 7.15. Dined at 8.30. Helped Mimi to make paper butterflies in the evening till bed time. | |
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